Dakota’s Steakhouse is a Dallas Gem

I’m sure Dakota’s Steakhouse, across from the Dallas Fairmont Hotel at the corner of Akard and San Jacinto streets, may be in the running today to be considered the best place to dine in the DFW metro area, certainly for lunch. . I have eaten there half a dozen times in the last twelve weeks; I’ve never been disappointed. In fact, I’ve been delighted each time, and have decided that the venerable Dakota is doing a better job than many of the newer (and flashier!) additions to the Dallas dining scene.

I was first invited to Dakota’s over twenty years ago, at a dinner for twelve in honor of a visiting Peruvian diplomat. The place itself draws attention, and there is indeed an interesting story behind Dakota’s magnificently lush underground space. Dakota’s was built in 1984 by the Lincoln Property Company who built a sleek modern glass tower that still stands next door. The owners wanted an upscale restaurant at street level, but the land on which the building stood was purchased from a neighboring Baptist church, and the deed contained a legally binding clause that absolutely prohibited the sale of alcohol on the former grounds. church, in perpetuity. .

Everyone understood that a “dry” restaurant couldn’t compete in modern day Dallas. So, a group of lawyers from Lincoln Property Company debated the difference between the phrases “on the ground” and “underground,” and the result of that discussion was an excavation twenty feet below street level to create the restaurant. underground that we find today. It has as a “roof” the rough asphalt of San Jacinto street. An elevator peeks above ground at street level, with valet parking. Dakota’s can also be reached via a series of air-conditioned tunnels that connect it to the Fairmont Hotel and all the neighboring buildings. In the tropical heat of summer, you don’t need to pack up your wrinkled clothes to eat there!

In the dozens of visits I have made to Dakota’s, I have never heard the sound of a car or truck above me. That’s because Dakota’s is encased in some very solid material: The restaurant takes its name from the eight million pounds of mahogany-colored granite from Dakota that was used to insulate this golden cave from the noisy outside world. It is a stone fortress.

The last time I had dinner at Dakota’s was this week. The lunch menu is traditional and rich and I never tire of it. To start this time, I ordered the jumbo crab cake served with sweet corn puree and a hint of cilantro. It was absolutely free of breadcrumbs, pure slivers of delicious crab, done exactly the right way. My partner ordered a country greens salad served with walnuts, wonderful chunks of snow white goat cheese and lightly drenched in blackberry vinaigrette. I stole a few bites. Both dishes are wonderful ways to whet your appetite.

For my entree I ordered what I have consistently ordered over my last three visits to Dakota’s, which is the excellent six ounce filet mignon. I asked for it to be prepared on high, searing heat so that the outside would blacken and crust while the tender inside remained pink. The Dakota’s chef is picky about the cuts he uses: His steaks are corn-fed beef supplied by Allen Brothers. The filet mignon at Dakota’s is always perfect, with a black pepper crust. I was offered a choice of green beans, broccoli, or mashed potatoes. I always have the mashed potatoes, which are creamy Yukon Gold potatoes served with Layla Farms butter and a hint of garlic. They are the best in town.

My partner had the Atlantic Salmon, which was seared with a light tomato jam crust, perfectly cooked, complemented by asparagus orzo. It was a very thin cut of prime salmon briefly exposed to such intense heat that a delicious light crust formed on the surface of the fish. I confess I stole a bite. I had an espresso after my meal while my partner had coffee.

The restaurant fills up quickly around noon with a crowd of local businesses, mainly well-to-do lawyers and bankers. I usually ask for a different table each time I visit Dakota’s, and have occasionally dined al fresco on the sunken patio, which is open to the sky above Akard Street and has a lovely little waterfall. Part of the fun of Dakota’s is enjoying the decor and atmosphere.

Dakota’s was built with no expense spared and no visitor should be without enjoying the restaurant while enjoying the food and service. The floor is hand cut Italian Carrera marble in a basket weave, the paneling is dark tropical hardwood with brass gas lamps and some attractive wooden columns that were salvaged from a last century Dallas stately home. Get up and wander around a bit while you wait for your food. Dakota’s is worth not just one visit, but many.

Dakota’s Steakhouse is at 600 North Akard Street in downtown Dallas. It is always advisable to make a reservation, especially for dinner. Call 214-740-4001.